I've been hit with 110 volts now and then. In electric cooking equipment, you're usually dealing with 220 volt circuits.

I want to impress upon you something really important. Your parts dealer has high-temp connections, porcelain wire nuts and fiberglass-insulated wire for this purpose. Normal connectors and wire insulation will melt under these conditions.

If you're testing for 220 volt power you need to use the VOM.Ĩ) When splicing wires in an oven, remember that you're dealing with high temperatures. If you're not getting full power out of the outlet, you'll know it right away. Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands!Ħ) If you have diagnosed a certain part to be bad, but you cannot figure out how to remove it, sometimes it helps to get the new part and examine it for mounting holes or other clues as to how it may be mounted.ħ) When testing for a 110 volt power supply from a wall outlet, you can plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer. And NEVER EVER remove the third (ground) prong in the main power plug! They are especially important in spark ignition systems the spark electrode will not spark without grounding.ĥ) When opening the oven cabinet or console, remember that the sheet metal parts have very sharp edges. Replace the part.Ĥ) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component. It may only act up when it is hot, or it may be bent slightly.there are a hundred different 'what if's.' Very few of the parts mentioned in this book will cost you over ten or twenty dollars. If that happens, you will have to start repairing your oven all over again. There is a reason that it stopped - you can bet on it - and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will fail again. Sometimes you can clean it out and lubricate it, and get it going again.

3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! You might find, say, a solenoid that has jammed for no apparent reason.

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